Pattern Review: TATB Safiya Dungarees/Playsuit hack

Here is my third pattern review from the Make it Simple book – this time, I have combined two variations in the book for the Safiya trousers.

Details

  • Name: Safiya
  • Variation: Dungarees for bodice/straps, playsuit for shorts
  • Design House: Tilly and the Buttons / Tilly Walnes’ book Make it Simple
  • Size I made: 4

Fabric

I wasn’t sure how this mash up would turn out, so to be on the safe side, I found something in my stash.  I ended up using an old curtain, which was easy to sew up.

Difficulty

There are no tricky fastenings and the darts were simple to construct.  My main issue was checking the fit and making sure I read the correct instructions for each part as I was using part of the playsuit instructions and part of the dungarees.

Clarity

The instructions are clear, but there is not much guidance on how to create this hack as it is just suggestion in the book.  However, if you put markers in the book to ensure you follow the right section at the right time, you should be okay!

Design and Fit

I am surprised at how fitted they have ended up considering the design is loose fit.  There is not much wiggle room for putting them on when they go past your hips.  My measurements are fairly standard, but if you do vary quite a bit and want a fitted finish, you may need to consider adding a zip.

I was torn between adding the tie and not having elastic or just going with the elastic.  As you can see, I went with the elasticated waist.  I decided to go with it in part because I would have had to remove the excess length on the shorts, but also felt it would be easier to wear with the elastic.

Sadly, the shorts are too short to incorporate the in-seam pocket.

Time Taken

It’s tricky to gauge how long it took me, as I went wrong a few times and I spent about an hour or so turning out those narrow straps!  I made it over a few days, but it probably equates to about two days.

Conclusion

Making this version has made me more tempted to make a longer dungaree version of the Safiya.  Living in the UK, I’m not sure how many short versions I would wear, but it’s definitely a fun addition to the wardrobe, and a good way to re-purpose an old curtain.

You can watch my related video on the vlog below:

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Pattern Review: TATB Shortie PJs

Here is my pattern review for the shortie PJs from the Make it Simple book!

Details

  • Name: Juno PJs
  • Variation: Shorts and short sleeved – with cuffs from Tabitha variation
  • Design House: Tilly and the Buttons / Tilly Walnes’ book Make it Simple
  • Size I made: 4

Fabric

I used up some yellow ponte fabric which I originally used for my yellow Kinder cardigan for the shorts.  The top was made from a nice single knit fabric I found in my local Trago shop.  The yellow ribbing was from My Fabrics.

Difficulty

I found this a nice simple make overall and would recommend to confident beginners.  The only bit which may be tricky is the neckband as it may need adjusting.  I followed the practice I learned from another pattern where you machine tack the neckband on to begin with to check it isn’t too baggy before going for it with a smaller stitch or overlocker!  It turned out I didn’t need to adjust it but it is good to be safe.

The waistband on the shorts is made in a similar fashion to the neckband.  I was concerned that I might find this a bit tricky as it can be easy to stretch elastic inconsistently, but it turned out to be fine.

For the shorts, you must adjust the trouser pattern from the trouser version, but the instructions on how to do this are really clear and I found this very easy to do.

Clarity

For the shorts, I followed the longhand instructions.  For the top, I followed the checklist instructions, but referred to the longhand version as required.  Both sets of directions were clear.

Design and Fit

I’m happy with the fit.  As it is made from a knit fabric, I didn’t worry about adjusting it.  There are clear instructions on how to measure out the elastic for the waistband.

You decide how long the shorts are, so I opted for and inside leg seam of 12cm, which I think is about double the version shown.  This length is just right for me; not too short and not too long.

I think the ribbed cuffs on the top are a nice addition and complements the shorts.

Time Taken

The book suggests 50 minutes to cut out and 2 hours to make.  I took 1 hour 30 minutes to cut out and 3 hours to make.

I couldn’t cut my shorts on the fold as I was using a remnant, and I added the cuffs to the sleeves, which probably added a bit of time onto the total.  However, I think I am just a slower sewist than those that helped create the guide times!

Conclusion

I’m happy with the end result and I might made the Tabitha t-shirt on its own one day as it would go under dungarees or a pinafore nicely.  It is like the Peak t-shirt by Wendy Ward in that you can embellish it and adapt it to your own style.  I think I will add a bit of embroidery on the top soon to give it a bit more character.

You can watch my related video below:

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Pattern Review: Bertha Cardigan

Recently, I received the latest Tilly and the Buttons book – Make it Simple – as a gift.  here is my first make from it!

Details

Pattern Details:

  • Name: Bertha
  • Variation: Original without additions/hacks
  • Pattern House: Tilly and the Buttons
  • Size I made: 4

Fabric

This red drapey single knit fabric is from my stash and was meant for my nan’s Kinder cardigna, but I cut into the wrong fabric for that.  It has a clear right and wrong side.  It was tricky to cut out as it was hard to lay out on the table to cut.  I had to cut a couple of pieces twice as I hadn’t laid the fabric out straight first time.  However, the fabric feels nice and looks smart.

Difficulty

The pattern is straight forward and simple.  It’s suitable for a beginner but has a few pattern pieces and is in knit fabric.  I made mine completely on the overlocker – minus the final stage where you secure the neckband hem to the hem band.  I followed the batching checklist which is designed to be a faster method of working but looked at the more detailed instructions when I needed clarification on any point.

Clarity

I didn’t struggle with any aspect of the instructions and found the checklist worked well with how I like to work.

Design and Fit

As intended, Bertha is loose fit in style to avoid excessive time on adjusting it to fit.  I would consider lengthening the sleeves next time as I’m only just comfortable with this length on me – but this is personal preference (technically they are long enough!)

I chose to avoid pockets on this occasion as I felt this fabric would look nicer without and made it look smarter if used for work.

Time Taken

I was very interested to track the time it took as the book does give guidance on this.

For cutting time it advises it will take around 40 minutes, but it took me about an hour – but I did go wrong and I am a slow cutter.

For sewing/construction time, it advises 1 hour 35 minutes.  It look me 2 hours 20 minutes.

The guide times are like those you get in a recipe book where it is just a guide and it may be that you are faster second time round.  I do think I may have been a bit speedier if I had been a bit more organised though!

Conclusion

A very fast make, and definitely possible to make in an afternoon.  I’m very happy with it and can’t wait to try out more patterns from the book.

You can watch my related video on this make below:

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5 Ideas for quick sewing gifts (all free patterns/tutorials)

I love to make a gift for my nearest and dearest, and while I start with huge ambitious plans, I’m normally grappling with time.  Here are a few ideas if you find yourself wanting to make gifts but needing some faster options.

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Pattern Review: TATB Freya Cowl Neck Dress

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Details

  • Pattern name: Freya
  • Variation/Style: Dress – Cowl Neck
  • Design House: Tilly and the Buttons / Tilly Walnes book Stretch!
  • Size I made: 4

Fabric

This owl knit fabric is quite stretch but very cosy.  I originally bought it from Fabricland UK a few years ago but I can’t remember which one!

Difficulty

I found this a simple make.  The cowl neck was easy to do and might even be easier than the mock neckline that is featured in the other variations in the book.  I think it is easier to add than a neckband in my own experience.  Apart from that, it was very similar to the Coco Dress (also by Tilly and the Buttons) to make up.

Clarity

I feel a bit like a parrot on this point, as I keep gushing over the Tilly and the Buttons pattern instructions and how it feels like someone is holding your hand, guiding you through the process!  I don’t remember encountering any issues with the instructions.  The book guides you nicely through all the steps.

Design and Fit

It is shorter than I would normally wear – similar length to the length of the Coco Dress – but as I would wear this with tights it is not too much of an issue.

It feels a bit snug on the bust so next time I may need to grade out a bit on this section – or it may be that I accidentally moved the fabric when cutting it out, reducing the width.

I really like the cowl neck and feel it adds a stylish yet simple addition to the pattern.  It would look great in a plain fabric as well.

Time Taken

You can make up this garment within a day.  However, I did leave the garment to rest a couple of days before I hemmed it,as I felt that the fabric needed this.

Conclusion

My conclusion is that I would recommend the pattern and this particular variation.  However, I would like to make the mock neck style as a sweater next time.  As I get warm easily and where I live is fairly mild (or shall we say muggy?) I don’t feel like I need many of these in my wardrobe, however.

You can watch my video review below:

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Pattern Review: The Joni Dress

I am gradually getting through the book Stretch! which came out last year!  Most recently, I made the Joni Dress.

Details

  • Pattern name: Joni
  • Variation/Style: Flared short sleeves
  • Design House: Tilly and the Buttons/Tilly Walnes book Stretch!
  • Size I made: 4

Fabric

I have used a simple two colour floral fabric from a local haberdashery a year or two ago.  It is quite thin but substantial and opaque and as a result the skirt section hangs well.

Difficulty

It is a bit more challenging than a simple knit dress, but I think it looks more complicated than it is to actually make it.  I’d say it is suitable for confident beginners who have had a go with knit fabrics before.

Clarity

Like all the other TATB patterns I have tried out, the guidance is very clear.  However, I did follow Sewisfaction’s video tutorial on making the front bodice twist rather than use the book instructions.  Next time, I might try out the original instructions just to see how much difference it makes.

Design and Fit

The design of this dress is great.  The twist detail adds interest and the volume in the skirt section along with the subtle dipped hem makes this dress look more complex than it is.

As it is a knit dress, I found that I didn’t make any adjustments.  My bust size was a bit bigger than the guide for the size 4, but with this fabric it did not matter and fits fine.  As it has a dipped hem, and it has more of an empire waistline, I did not bother to adjust for my sway back.

Time Taken

This was a relatively quick make or a slightly more detailed knit dress.  I took a bit of extra time drafting the flared sleeves and choosing the sleeve length but this was still fairly fast as the instructions are clear.

Conclusion

I love this dress!  It’s so comfy and easy to chuck on for the day.  I definitely want to attempt making one with stripes soon.

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Pattern Review and Upcycle: Cleo Pinafore

This is arguably one of my faourite makes of 2019 so far – the upcycled cleo!

Details

  • Pattern name: Cleo
  • Variation/Style: Knee length
  • Design House: Tilly and the Buttons
  • Size I made: 4

Fabric

I made this completely out of two pairs of size 16 jeans which were gifted to me the other year.  I had my sights on transforming them into a pinafore towards the end of the year but Sewisfaction’s Great British Sewing Bee challenge brought it forward.

The denim of the jeans is lovely and thick and and as a result it is a real treat wearing this pinafore.  Best of all is that it doesn’t crease – yes!

Difficulty

The pattern is beautifully simple.  I did not have to make any adjustments as it is loose fit, but you may wish to grade between sizes if your measurements vary.

The most challenging part for me was topstitching as I wanted to use a contrast thread colour and I struggled to get the tension right on my machine.  If your fabric is thick and your machine is not suited to heavy weight materials, you may struggle going over seam bulk.  However, I found that using a denim needle for the sewing up and a top stitching needle helped, along with the trusty walking foot.

The hardest part was cutting out all the parts from the jeans.  I am not convinced that I cut the front sections perfectly on the grainline, and unpicking the seams took hours!

Clarity

As I have mentioned in other TATB pattern reviews (and many others have said the same), the instructions are very clear and guide you step by step.

Design and Fit

Cleo is a loose fit garment and as a result, is easy to fit.  If you use buckles and don’t stitch down the straps, it even leaves room for adjusting in this area at any time.

I decided to put the front slit at the back.  I think a slit is needed for the knee length version or your walking gait might be a bit restricted.  I really like the hip pocket detail as well.  I was tempted by the bib pocket but it seemed a shame to not use two of the ready made back pockets from one set of jeans!

Time Taken

It is really difficult to evaluate how long it took me to make this garment.  The sewing up was pretty quick and didn’t take long.  The main time sink was unpicking the original jeans construction as they are made so well!  However, if you made these from a piece of fabric it would not take long at all, especially as the pattern is designed for use with stable woven fabrics

Conclusion

I have always had reservations about the Cleo.  Like many of the TATB patterns, I’ve always felt that I like the look of them but that they might not suit me.  However, having made it and worn it many times, I am really happy I went ahead with it.  It has soared to the top as my favourite pinafore to wear and I really feel that repurposing the jeans has made it such a satisfying make to wear that is likely to last a long time.  The fabric of the jeans is so substantial and feels so nice – I suspect it would have cost me fair bit to find the equivalent in a fabric shop!

In particular, I love the blend of the two jeans.  They are a similar weight, but I like the fact you can see the medley of the two types of denim.

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Pattern Review: The TATB Bow Blouse

Today I’m sharing a pattern review of one of my #2018makenine projects!  I added it to my make nine list as it’s something I began in 2017 and then abandoned when I got confused with it.  However, I am so glad I persevered as it wasn’t so bad after all and it certainly stands out in my wardrobe.

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