Pattern Review: TATB Safiya Dungarees/Playsuit hack

Here is my third pattern review from the Make it Simple book - this time, I have combined two variations in the book for the Safiya trousers. Details Name: Safiya Variation: Dungarees for bodice/straps, playsuit for shorts Design House: Tilly and the Buttons / Tilly Walnes' book Make it Simple Size I made: 4 Fabric I wasn't sure how this mash up would turn out, so to be on the safe side, I found something in my stash.  I ended up using an old curtain, which was easy to sew up. Difficulty There are no tricky fastenings and the darts were simple to construct.  My main issue was checking the fit and making sure I read the correct instructions for each part as I was using part of the playsuit instructions and part of the dungarees. Clarity The instructions are clear, but there is not much guidance on how to create this hack as it is just suggestion in the book.  However, if you put markers in the book to ensure you follow the right section at the right time, you should be okay! Design and Fit I am surprised at how fitted they have ended up considering the design is loose fit.  There is not much wiggle room for putting them on when they go past your hips.  My measurements are fairly standard, but if you do vary quite a bit and want a fitted finish, you may need to consider adding a zip. I was torn between adding the tie and not having elastic or just going with the elastic.  As you can see, I went with the elasticated waist.  I decided to go with it in part because I would have had to remove the excess length on the shorts, but also felt it would be easier to wear with the elastic. Sadly, the shorts are too short to incorporate the in-seam pocket. Time Taken It's tricky to gauge how long it took me, as I went wrong a few times and I spent about an hour or so turning out those narrow straps!  I made it over a few days, but it probably equates to about two days. Conclusion Making this version has made me more tempted to make a longer dungaree version of the Safiya.  Living in the UK, I'm not sure how many short versions I would wear, but it's definitely a fun addition to the wardrobe, and a good way to re-purpose an old curtain. You can watch my related video on the vlog below: https://youtu.be/fcPobo-5hd0

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Pattern Review: TATB Shortie PJs

Here is my pattern review for the shortie PJs from the Make it Simple book! Details Name: Juno PJs Variation: Shorts and short sleeved – with cuffs from Tabitha variation Design House: Tilly and the Buttons / Tilly Walnes’ book Make it Simple Size I made: 4 Fabric I used up some yellow ponte fabric which I originally used for my yellow Kinder cardigan for the shorts.  The top was made from a nice single knit fabric I found in my local Trago shop.  The yellow ribbing was from My Fabrics. Difficulty I found this a nice simple make overall and would recommend to confident beginners.  The only bit which may be tricky is the neckband as it may need adjusting.  I followed the practice I learned from another pattern where you machine tack the neckband on to begin with to check it isn’t too baggy before going for it with a smaller stitch or overlocker!  It turned out I didn’t need to adjust it but it is good to be safe. The waistband on the shorts is made in a similar fashion to the neckband.  I was concerned that I might find this a bit tricky as it can be easy to stretch elastic inconsistently, but it turned out to be fine. For the shorts, you must adjust the trouser pattern from the trouser version, but the instructions on how to do this are really clear and I found this very easy to do. Clarity For the shorts, I followed the longhand instructions.  For the top, I followed the checklist instructions, but referred to the longhand version as required.  Both sets of directions were clear. Design and Fit I’m happy with the fit.  As it is made from a knit fabric, I didn’t worry about adjusting it.  There are clear instructions on how to measure out the elastic for the waistband. You decide how long the shorts are, so I opted for and inside leg seam of 12cm, which I think is about double the version shown.  This length is just right for me; not too short and not too long. I think the ribbed cuffs on the top are a nice addition and complements the shorts. Time Taken The book suggests 50 minutes to cut out and 2 hours to make.  I took 1 hour 30 minutes to cut out and 3 hours to make. I couldn’t cut my shorts on the fold as I was using a remnant, and I added the cuffs to the sleeves, which probably added a bit of time onto the total.  However, I think I am just a slower sewist than those that helped create the guide times! Conclusion I’m happy with the end result and I might made the Tabitha t-shirt on its own one day as it would go under dungarees or a pinafore nicely.  It is like the Peak t-shirt by Wendy Ward in that you can embellish it and adapt it to your own style.  I think I…

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Pattern Review: Bertha Cardigan

Recently, I received the latest Tilly and the Buttons book - Make it Simple - as a gift.  here is my first make from it! Details Pattern Details: Name: Bertha Variation: Original without additions/hacks Pattern House: Tilly and the Buttons Size I made: 4 Fabric This red drapey single knit fabric is from my stash and was meant for my nan's Kinder cardigna, but I cut into the wrong fabric for that.  It has a clear right and wrong side.  It was tricky to cut out as it was hard to lay out on the table to cut.  I had to cut a couple of pieces twice as I hadn't laid the fabric out straight first time.  However, the fabric feels nice and looks smart. Difficulty The pattern is straight forward and simple.  It's suitable for a beginner but has a few pattern pieces and is in knit fabric.  I made mine completely on the overlocker - minus the final stage where you secure the neckband hem to the hem band.  I followed the batching checklist which is designed to be a faster method of working but looked at the more detailed instructions when I needed clarification on any point. Clarity I didn't struggle with any aspect of the instructions and found the checklist worked well with how I like to work. Design and Fit As intended, Bertha is loose fit in style to avoid excessive time on adjusting it to fit.  I would consider lengthening the sleeves next time as I'm only just comfortable with this length on me - but this is personal preference (technically they are long enough!) I chose to avoid pockets on this occasion as I felt this fabric would look nicer without and made it look smarter if used for work. Time Taken I was very interested to track the time it took as the book does give guidance on this. For cutting time it advises it will take around 40 minutes, but it took me about an hour - but I did go wrong and I am a slow cutter. For sewing/construction time, it advises 1 hour 35 minutes.  It look me 2 hours 20 minutes. The guide times are like those you get in a recipe book where it is just a guide and it may be that you are faster second time round.  I do think I may have been a bit speedier if I had been a bit more organised though! Conclusion A very fast make, and definitely possible to make in an afternoon.  I'm very happy with it and can't wait to try out more patterns from the book. You can watch my related video on this make below: https://youtu.be/NGnf7UOl5Bw

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Pattern Review: Butterick 5189 Dressing Gown

Recently I made another of my planned makes for #2020make nine - the dressing gown - as a gift. Details Pattern Name: 6232 Variation/style: Dressing Gown Design House: Butterick Size I made: L Fabric The main fabric is a polyester brocade and the lining is a red terry cloth.  The brocade is woven and the terry cloth is knit fabric.  Both are from Fabricland. Using a knit and woven was quite challenging as they act very differently to one another, and I would recommend to avoid using them together in a project like this if possible.  The terry cloth was happy to stretch away and the blocade was slippery.  However, I could not find a towelling fabric I liked and the terry cloth matched the brocade nicely. Difficulty I'd say this is good for a confident beginner pattern-wise but it does depend on the fabric choice.  If you use towelling, there is a nap to it to consider (direction of the fabric) and it can be quite thick to sew as well, which can create its own challenges. However, there are no challenging zips or fastenings.  The patch pocket and amount of top stitching may be tricky, but also may not show too much depending on your fabric choice. Clarity I found the instructions lovely and clear apart from on how to hem the garment.  I ended up leveling off the hem first, then pressing/tacking the hem allowance up, then tacking the lining and main sides together before slip stitching together and finishing off with top stitching. Design and Fit It is a relaxed fit so the fit was not too challenging.  The main issue has been the hem without the recipient to hand (as it is a gift).  I love the idea that it could be reversible.  The collar adds definition and the pockets are roomy.  It doesn't have tabs to secure the tie which is a shame, but fairly easy to rectify.  It is also difficult to position until you try it on as well to get the position correct.  If I ever come across this pattern in my own size, I would be very tempted to make one for myself. (my copy is only L/XL). Time Taken I made this over three weeks, but it could be done in a few days or quicker with easier fabrics. Conclusion I've definitely got my money's worth with this pattern now.  It was a charity shop find to begin with but I have made the PJ shorts a couple of times (which are great too) and this dressing gown was simple to follow and looks great.  I would recommend it, and would make it again. You can watch my video review below: https://youtu.be/Kq4bQNntzYk

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My 2020 plans

Here are my plans going into 2020... 2020 Make Nine Here are my make nine plans: Freya Sweater by Tilly and the Buttons Toucan t-shirt Shawl Mila Dungarees by Tilly and the Buttons Dressing Gown using Butterick 5189 A men's shirt (not decided on pattern yet) Slipper Boots (free pattern by Tilly and the Buttons) Trousers Art of Knitting throw Other plans Learn to draft a trouser block (going to a locally held class) Mend textile items at home which need fixing Successfully make any items for special birthdays coming up this year Keeping track of my progress and achievements I decided that this year my day job and hobbies would collide in the form of this spreadsheet - the my makes spreadsheet!  At the end of 2019, I realised that I couldn't remember a lot of the makes I had achieved, particularly gifts as I no longer had them, so this year I am keeping track. I am going to gather data on various aspects such as whether it's a gift or not, what type of project, how long it takes and the cost, if possible. Watch it on the vlog I discussed my plans in a bit more detail over on the vlog: https://youtu.be/Pxz1beeCKb4

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Review of the year: 2019

With the year drawing to a close, I thought I would reflect on my makes during 2019. Most challenging make - the black copley cardigan I've chosen the black copley cardigan as it is the make that took me the longest.  I have made this pattern before but in a yellow colour, which was a lot easier on the eye!  I can get quite impatient so the fact I persevered and finished it within a year is quite an achievement. I haven't worn it much yet - I think I have just got a bit exhausted from it.  I'm sure I will start wearing it more once I've recovered! Most fun make - the beach towel poncho It was easy to select the most fun make - it's the beach towel poncho!  My mum and I made this one weekend when she came to stay.  She wanted one for when she visits us as we live close to the beach. I enjoyed this make as it was a collaborative effort, we had to work out how to make it as we went along, and it came out better than I imagined. Most useful make - the Debbie Shore office bag The most useful make has been this Debbie Shore Office Bag.  I only made it in September but it is now my work bag.  I made a matching water bottle carrier and zip pouch as well which have proved to be invaluable as well. Favourite gift made - the bear pjs I am fond of practically all the gifts I made this year, but my last substantial make has to be my favourite.  I made Phill these bear PJs from pattern woven fabric from our trip to Hong Kong in 2018 and then made a top in a black knit fabric.  Once made, I couldn't resist making a little bear motif for the top.  I tried to replicate one of the bears on the patterned fabric and created the outline with chain stitch, using a french knot for the bear's eye. Favourite make - the Cleo upcycle The Cleo pinafore stands out in my mind as it is probably the make I wear the most.  As I made it from two pairs of jeans that were given to me, it feels so substantial and lovely to wear. My #2019makenine Molly Dress - completed Bibi Pinafore - completed Copley Cardigan - completed (see above) Kinder Cardigan - completed Toucan T-Shirt - did not start but will rollover to 2020 list Bag for swimming or yoga - no longer required (but I did make that office bag instead) Vinyl travel bag - did not make but may carry over to 2020 list Art of Knitting throw - Did not continue as the cardigan took so long Sew House 7 Dress - did not make Other key achievements and lessons learned I can survive on my fabric stash without buying more fabric - and I now appreciate my stash rather than feeling overwhelmed…

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DIY Fabric Gift Tags

I couldn't resist the temptation of one last Christmas DIY before the main event!  This time, I decided to explore making personalised fabric gift tags. Now it is worth noting that in order to make this a bit less wasteful, it's best to make tags for people where you can retrieve the tags back from them after they open the gifts (unless they really want to keep them) so you can use them annually.  As a result, I would only make them for close relatives. The tools I used for the ones I made: Fabric remnant in desired colour (I used a scrap of bleached calico) Thread - matching and contrast for design Sewing machine Free machine foot (as I embellished with free machine embroidery) Embroidery hoop (again due to free machine embroidery) Eyelet tool and eyelet (but you could do a button hole instead) Short piece of twine 1.Decide on the size of your gift tag and create some designs I decided to make my tags 9cm by 5cm rectangles, but you could create them a different shape.  Remember to allow space for the hole you will punch at the end for the string or twine to thread through. I used the internet to come up with some design ideas.  If you are not too confident drawing your own designs, you may be able to find some downloadable templates online. Ensure you have enough of a border around the edges to sew the front and back pieces of your tag together so that it won't interfere with the tag design. 2. Transfer your chosen design onto fabric Depending on your chosen design, you may with to use applique, fabric paints, or machine stitching to transfer it to fabric.  I used free machine embroidery, which you can watch in the video linked below. 3. Create your message on the other side of the tag You could use a fabric pen to write on the other side of the tag, or if you have a sewing machine that does embroidered letters, go for it! I used free machine embroidery, as I like writing freehand with stitch. 4. Sew the two sides of the tag together (wrong sides together) With both sides of the tag decorated, it's time to stitch them together!  Place the two sides wrong sides facing and stitch around all four sides (or all the edges depending on your chosen shape).  I left a very small seam allowance of about 3mm from the raw edge. I used matching thread but I think you could go for a contrast with a decorative stitch. 5. Neaten the edges (optional) Entirely optional, but I felt mine looked a bit better by neatening the raw edge with pinking shears. 6. Add an eyelet, then add your twine! I used an eyelet tool to create the hole for the twine (see video).  However, you could create a small button hole if you don't have this resource. Repeat to make as many as you wish.…

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Pattern Review: So Sew Easy Serger Scrap Catcher

Today I am sharing my thoughts on a free sewing pattern you can follow on the So Sew Easy website - it's the Easy Serger Scrap Catcher! Details Pattern name: Easy Serger Scrap Catcher Variation/Style: N/A Design House: Pattern from So Sew Easy website Size I made: made according to the pattern's suggested measurements Fabric I used some remnant fabrics to make this - I would say that the toucan fabric pictured is quilting cotton weight.  From the image below, you can see I had two colour ways of this fetching fabric.  I also added fusible fleece to it to give the final mat and pocket structure. Difficulty I found the bias binding element (all around the top of the pocket and all the edges) particularly challenging on this project.  Usually, I opt for machine sewing one side down and then hand sew the other side in place, but I didn't have the time on this occasion and opted for top stitching by machine.  It is not my finest piece of work as a result as the tape dragged a bit, so if you haven't used bias binding much, you may need to work carefully at this step! Clarity I printed a grey scale copy of the instructions and struggled, so I would recommend either reading off your screen or using colour!  I am not sure whether I just wasn't feeling great at the time or I had a fixed idea on how it would work, but I did struggle a bit with comprehension and may have veered off from the instructions on occasion. The linked guide on how to create mitered corners with bias binding was really good. Design and Fit This pattern fits my overlocker perfectly - however it is a gift so I hope it fits the machine of the recipient!! I love the big pocket for scraps at the front as well as the fact that it protects the table I am using while I overlock. Time Taken The longest aspect of this project was cutting all the sections out.  I didn't quilt (just ironed on the fusible fleece) so if you do this element, it will take a bit longer. You could do this in a day, including cutting out, particularly if you are a savvy bias binder! Conclusion Love the concept, but I may have a play around next time to tweak the design for my own machine. https://youtu.be/3GLoWCk8bGY

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