DIY Rudolf brooch/badge with light up nose

Hello!  Today I am back after a very long break to share a project which I made a couple of Christmases ago.  Unfortunately, time has flown, and I haven’t been able to share it with you until now.  I’m glad to say that I have finally edited it and I hope you enjoy it. So, one autumn, I decided it would be fun to make a Christmas brooch.  While Christmas jumpers are great, sometimes it’s much easier to wear an accessory to make any outfit festive.  I was getting into wearable electronics as well, and this seemed like a nice straightforward project for anyone wishing to learn a bit more about this as well.The design I am sharing with you is a reindeer badge.  It is made from two colours of felt, sewn together with embroidery floss, though I do use some glue as well.  It uses a small sew-on red LED light, secured to the coin battery pack on the back with some conductive thread.  The coin battery pack was purchased from Pi Hut and allows you to select a flashing or constant light option.I encourage you to have a go at designing your brooch design but if you like my reindeer, you can download a template off my website for free with the option to make a payment if you wish.Now, I mentioned that this tutorial has been long in the making.  I made a slightly different version the year before which used a rechargeable battery which was sewn into the head of the reindeer.  It used a more complex electronics design as well.  However, I felt the coin battery design was much simpler and more effective. What you need First, I will run through the resources you’ll need to make this brooch.Felt in the colours you wish to use for the face and antlers of your reindeerEmbroidery flossRed LED light - I got them from the pihutCoin battery power supply - I used one from the pihutA wire stripper toolTweezers are optional but can be useful for manipulating the coin battery wires which can be fiddlySwe-on brooch/badge backGlue that can attach plastic to the felt (I used rapid epoxy adhesive)Conductive thread - I got this from the pihutPermanent adhesive spray suitable for fabric - mine is from HobbycraftOptional: fray checkThe brooch templateFabric pen, tailor’s chalk or pencil for tracingBulldog clip or something to help with gluing the coin battery to the felt (you can always check this step to see what I mean)The template 1. Cut out the felt pieces First, I used the template to trace around the reindeer’s face to create two reindeer heads.  These were then cut out.Next, I used a white fabric pen to trace around the whole reindeer template onto the antler felt colour and cut this out.I have used a fabric pen to trace but you could use a pencil.Use spray adhesive to stick the antler coloured piece to another bit of the same coloured felt to create a thicker section…

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Sew a Wheat Warmer

I had some lovely leftover fleece from making one of my niece’s a leopard print cape last Christmas, so I decided to use it to make some lavender wheat warmers for myself and others. I find wheat warmers are really useful when you feel a bit sore or stiff and I had been using a very old shop bought one for years to manage my chronic health symptoms before getting round to making this one. Once you have made it, all you need to do is pop it in the microwave for up to 120 seconds if less than 800 Watt, or up to 100 seconds if your microwave is 800-1000 Watt.  It can help to put a small mug filled with water in the microwave at the same time to provide a bit of moisture (just in the microwave with it, not poured over it!) What you need What you need: 45 x 29 cm (18 x 11.5 inches) fabric - I used fleece 750g of dried wheat 2 tablespoons of dried lavender In addition to the usual sewing items, you will need a funnel or something similar to fill the warmer with wheat (I used the cardboard in the middle of a finished toilet roll) as well as a bowl and scales to mix the dry ingredients. 1. Fold and pin the fabric Fold your fabric in half lengthways, right sides together, so that the long ends meet. Pin or peg along the raw edges. 2. Sew together the sides and ends of the wheat warmer With a 1cm (1/2 inch) seam allowance, stitch around the three open sides, leaving a gap at one of the short ends for turning right side out/ stuffing. 3. Trim and turn right sides out Trim the corners slightly and turn right side out. 4. Mark a line in the middle of the wheat warmer With a few pins, mark a line in the middle of the wheat warmer which is parallel to the long sides of the warmer. You may find it easier to then tack the line in place, especially when using a bulky fabric like fleece. 5. Stitch centre line Stitch along the marked line, starting and ending about 7.5cm (3 inches) from the short ends of the warmer. 6. Prepare the filling Mix around 750g of wheat with 2 tablespoons of dried lavender in a bowl. 7. Fill the wheat warmer Using a funnel and spoon, gradually fill the warmer with the mix. 8. Sew up the opening Slip stitch the opening closed. Variations: Vary the size and shape depending on how you wish to use the warmer – you may wish to make it circular or thinner – just remember to scale the amount of dry ingredients! These instructions include adding a line of stitching in the middle of the length of the warmer, but you could leave this step out. Alternatively, you could add another line or two of stitching or stitch lines the other way…

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Sew your own dishcloths

Recently, my mum got into making her own dishcloths to be a bit more sustainable.  Also, they’re great for using up scraps of fabric you have left from other projects!This dishcloth is simple to make.  It uses a bit of hessian (burlap) for one side for when you need a more abrasive side which won’t damage any non-stick surfaces.  The softer side is simply cotton, and can be made from any of your favourite remnants.To make them as sustainable as possible, you need to use 100% natural fibre fabrics and thread.  This will ensure that the dishcloth can biodegrade.  Here, I have used cotton fabric as I have loads of remnants of this, but another natural fibre such as linen would work just as well.If you’d like to make a few dishcloths, either for yourself or to gift to others, I’d recommend making a cardboard template to make it easier to cut out a batch. What you need The following would make a 9cm x 14cm dishcloth11cm x 16cm remnant of hessian / burlap fabric (for the non-scratch scourer side)11cm x 16cm remnant of 100% plain cotton (for the middle of the cloth)11cm x 16cm remnant of 100% cotton fabric (for one side of the dishcloth)100% cotton threadSeam allowances are 1cm 1. Layer the fabrics Place the fabric you wish to have as the soft side of your dishcloth right side down onto the piece of hessian.Next, place the plain piece of fabric you wish to use for the middle of the dishcloth on top so that the main cotton piece is now sandwiched between the plain cotton fabric and hessian.Pin or peg the pieces together. 2. Sew the layers together Leaving a large enough gap for turning right side out, sew all three layers together using a 1cm seam allowance. 3. Clip corners and turn right side out Clip the corners to reduce seam bulk, and then turn right side out, ensuring the corners are pushed out. 4. Top-stitch Sew two lines of topstitching.  Stitch one line close to the edge – this will mean that you won’t have to slip stitch the opening shut.  The second line of stitching can be parallel to this line, furth in from the edge. 5. Add a couple (or more!) lines of stitching across the cloth To keep the three layers secure in the middle, sew a couple of lines of stitching in whatever pattern you would like. Watch it on the Vlog I've linked my video for this tutorial below:https://youtu.be/jwKo74zz7uA

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Tutorial: Waterproof Sitting Mat

I haven't sewn a lot recently but this project had been on my mind for about a year, and I finally made it happen recently! I expect it was inspired by all the outdoor catch ups during the pandemic.  However, I thought it's still a useful item to make for yourself or a great and fairly simple gift to make for someone else. What you need 1/2 metre Main fabric for the top - a sturdy fabric like cotton duck 1/2 metre Insulated wadding - to help provide some insulation 1/2 metre waterproof fabric for the base - I chose a 600 dernier canvas-like fabric as I hope it will provide some longevity 30cm of strap - I used herringbone twill tape as I had it to hand, but webbing might be more robust.  If you have neither, you could make a strap from leftover fabric Matching thread A quilting foot and temporary fabric spray are useful for the quilting stage but not essential. 1. Make your template I've popped down how I made my template but you could make it another shape, such as a circle! Draw out a 42cm by 42cm square on paper. Use a side plate to curve the corners. Cut out. 2. Cut out your pieces Now you have your template, you need to cut out: 1x top piece 1x of waterproof fabric for the base piece Once the top piece is cut out, either attach it to your wadding with pins or temporary adhesive spray and cut out. 3. Quilt the top layer to the wadding Mark out a quilting pattern of your choice depending on the fabric and stitch the two layers together. You may find a quilting foot handy for this step. 4. Attach the strap Once quilted, position the webbing on one side overlapping the edge slightly, about 11cm down from the top. Stitch to secure just within the 1cm seam allowance. 5. Stitch the front and back pieces together Place the front and back right sides together and sew around the edges, leaving a 10cm opening on one side. Trim the seam allowance on the corners (or use pinking shears) and turn right side out. Hand stitch the opening closed with slip stitch. With the top side on the top, carefully press with an iron. 6. Topstitch around the edge Top stitch around 1cm from the edge all the way around. 7. Finish the raw edge of the strap and add the snap fastener To make the strap, fold the mat in two with the base on the inside, and so the bottom meets the top edge. Starting from the side without the strap, roll the mat up, and then wrap the webbing around to see where you would like to add the fastening. For me, I chose the tie to be 25cm in length. To reinforce and hide the raw edge, I cut the webbing 4cm longer than I wanted the tie. I folded up the end by 2cm…

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Pattern Review: TATB Safiya Dungarees/Playsuit hack

Here is my third pattern review from the Make it Simple book - this time, I have combined two variations in the book for the Safiya trousers. Details Name: Safiya Variation: Dungarees for bodice/straps, playsuit for shorts Design House: Tilly and the Buttons / Tilly Walnes' book Make it Simple Size I made: 4 Fabric I wasn't sure how this mash up would turn out, so to be on the safe side, I found something in my stash.  I ended up using an old curtain, which was easy to sew up. Difficulty There are no tricky fastenings and the darts were simple to construct.  My main issue was checking the fit and making sure I read the correct instructions for each part as I was using part of the playsuit instructions and part of the dungarees. Clarity The instructions are clear, but there is not much guidance on how to create this hack as it is just suggestion in the book.  However, if you put markers in the book to ensure you follow the right section at the right time, you should be okay! Design and Fit I am surprised at how fitted they have ended up considering the design is loose fit.  There is not much wiggle room for putting them on when they go past your hips.  My measurements are fairly standard, but if you do vary quite a bit and want a fitted finish, you may need to consider adding a zip. I was torn between adding the tie and not having elastic or just going with the elastic.  As you can see, I went with the elasticated waist.  I decided to go with it in part because I would have had to remove the excess length on the shorts, but also felt it would be easier to wear with the elastic. Sadly, the shorts are too short to incorporate the in-seam pocket. Time Taken It's tricky to gauge how long it took me, as I went wrong a few times and I spent about an hour or so turning out those narrow straps!  I made it over a few days, but it probably equates to about two days. Conclusion Making this version has made me more tempted to make a longer dungaree version of the Safiya.  Living in the UK, I'm not sure how many short versions I would wear, but it's definitely a fun addition to the wardrobe, and a good way to re-purpose an old curtain. You can watch my related video on the vlog below: https://youtu.be/fcPobo-5hd0

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Pattern Review: TATB Shortie PJs

Here is my pattern review for the shortie PJs from the Make it Simple book! Details Name: Juno PJs Variation: Shorts and short sleeved – with cuffs from Tabitha variation Design House: Tilly and the Buttons / Tilly Walnes’ book Make it Simple Size I made: 4 Fabric I used up some yellow ponte fabric which I originally used for my yellow Kinder cardigan for the shorts.  The top was made from a nice single knit fabric I found in my local Trago shop.  The yellow ribbing was from My Fabrics. Difficulty I found this a nice simple make overall and would recommend to confident beginners.  The only bit which may be tricky is the neckband as it may need adjusting.  I followed the practice I learned from another pattern where you machine tack the neckband on to begin with to check it isn’t too baggy before going for it with a smaller stitch or overlocker!  It turned out I didn’t need to adjust it but it is good to be safe. The waistband on the shorts is made in a similar fashion to the neckband.  I was concerned that I might find this a bit tricky as it can be easy to stretch elastic inconsistently, but it turned out to be fine. For the shorts, you must adjust the trouser pattern from the trouser version, but the instructions on how to do this are really clear and I found this very easy to do. Clarity For the shorts, I followed the longhand instructions.  For the top, I followed the checklist instructions, but referred to the longhand version as required.  Both sets of directions were clear. Design and Fit I’m happy with the fit.  As it is made from a knit fabric, I didn’t worry about adjusting it.  There are clear instructions on how to measure out the elastic for the waistband. You decide how long the shorts are, so I opted for and inside leg seam of 12cm, which I think is about double the version shown.  This length is just right for me; not too short and not too long. I think the ribbed cuffs on the top are a nice addition and complements the shorts. Time Taken The book suggests 50 minutes to cut out and 2 hours to make.  I took 1 hour 30 minutes to cut out and 3 hours to make. I couldn’t cut my shorts on the fold as I was using a remnant, and I added the cuffs to the sleeves, which probably added a bit of time onto the total.  However, I think I am just a slower sewist than those that helped create the guide times! Conclusion I’m happy with the end result and I might made the Tabitha t-shirt on its own one day as it would go under dungarees or a pinafore nicely.  It is like the Peak t-shirt by Wendy Ward in that you can embellish it and adapt it to your own style.  I think I…

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