The Poppy Playsuit

Once again, it’s been a while since I’ve had another go at dressmaking.  I remedied this by combining a recent pattern in Simply Sewing with a recent material purchase!

There’s a lovely charity shop nearby who sell craft supplies.  I was very lucky to go into the shop when they had a material sale on, which meant I got two fabrics for the price of one!  One of the fabrics I came across is this lovely one above.

I am not sure what type of material it is, but it drapes well and there was enough to try out the Poppy Playsuit by Sew Over It, which came with issue 16 of Simply Sewing.  The main criteria for the material for this pattern was one which drapes well so I had the perfect match!

This is the first pattern I have tried making a basic alteration with.  I found that the bust and waist measurements were close enough to one pattern size, but my hips definitely needed a smaller size.  The pattern pieces did not highlight where the hipline was, which was a shame, but I still made a basic alteration from the waist to one of the notches which I felt was close to the hip measurement area.

The fabric was a challenge to cut out as it moves easily – I found that pattern weights and then pinning it helped.  The pattern’s instructions suggested pinning the edge of the fabric too, which was a useful tip.

As I was concerned about the material moving too much, I pinned and tacked at every stage.  Tacking increases the time considerably, but it did mean that I didn’t have any major unpicking sessions!

The pattern directions are clear and and concise.  Key terms are defined, which saves a google search part way through your make!  The only section I had to re-read again was how to do the turn-ups, and they turned out to be really simple once I focused on the directions carefully.

The only bit of unpicking I had to do was related to the hook and eye.  I attached the hook so that it would meet the edge of the right hand side opening.  This caused a gape in the material when fastened.  I changed this by placing the hook on the very edge of the right hand side opening and put the bar further in on the left hand side.  Also, I didn’t read the pattern carefully when attaching the facing and did a 1.5cm seam allowance instead of 1cm!

I was surprised by how long it took me to make this item, but that’s mainly because (a) I’m rusty at dressmaking and (b) the material required more care than a standard cotton or linen.  However I think it’s well worth it and I look forward to some warmer weather soon so I can wear it!!  I would definitely complete this pattern again, and I expect I would find it even easier and faster second time round.

Although it took some time, this pattern is great for beginners because (a) there are only 4 main parts to the pattern, (b) no darts, (c) the shaping and fastening is the hook and eye and elastic casing at the waist, which means no zips or buttonholes.  The fabric really helps to define its shape, so as long as you get that right, you’ll end up with a lovely addition to your wardrobe!

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My first sew with knit material – the simple top

Here is another make from my #miymarch16 activity!

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To ease my nerves, I read up for some basic tips on sewing with knit fabrics with the help of Tilly and the Buttons’ blog post and Smarmyclothes’ youtube video.

The pattern – McCall’s 9399

top pattern

I got this pattern in a charity shop for a bargain price – I’m not even sure I paid the £1.99 penned onto the front!  I chose design E as I quite like a high-ish neckline, although I was tempted by the asymmetrical option, and H, which has a slightly lower neckline.

I didn’t want a complicated first knit project, so I felt that this pattern would be simple enough to give it a go without using too much material and time immediately.

I needed only a yard of material for this project.  I used a stretchy material I bought from Fabricland a long time ago but hadn’t gotten around to using so I was very happy to finally bust this one out of the stash!!

The pattern suggested a double hem.  Baffled by this technique, I searched online and found this tutorial to be useful in defining what it is.  Knowing I had a twin needle, I thought “yeah!  I could do that!” and set to work to make it happen.  However, after hemming the neckline, I realised that the bobbin thread was way too tight and and broke when I stretched the material.  I searched online to find out how to resolve this new issue and came across Mariadenmark’s useful post.  This enabled me to realise that I needed to increase the upper thread tension to make it work (I didn’t use interfacing as I don’t own any for knit fabrics – yet).

Things I learned from this project:

  1. Prior research helped a lot! If I hadn’t learned the basic tips of how to prevent it stretching, the needle to use, and the stitch types which can be used, I would have been stuffed as I would have been easily mislead by the pattern’s instructions and guidance as it looks like they suggest a straight stitch…
  2. The double needle gives a nice neck edge – but it takes time to get the tension right for it to work!
  3. Use a knit machine needle!
  4. There are various stitches you can use for knit fabrics. I thought I would opt for the standard zigzag, but when it warped the shoulder seams a bit, I found that the three stitch zigzag worked much better for me and the material I was using.

 

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Upcycling jeans – the sewing pinny!

One of the projects I made during #miymarch16 was the upcycled pinny from an old pair of jeans.

jeans before
A very creased pair of old jeans!

I got these jeans for my 21st.  I’m a bit of a hoarder, and while they had a tear in them where the fabric was so thin and worn out, I hadn’t had the heart to chuck them away.

When I met up with my mum and sister in March, they suggested cutting them up into something new.  Due to the location of the worn out section, a skirt was not suitable!  However, we came up with making a tool belt.

jeans initial cut

One of the best parts of making something from something you’re prepared to throw away is that it doesn’t cost you anything and you have a lot of freedom to just go for it!  I simply placed a ruler over the jeans roughly where I thought the length would be good and took a rotary cutter to it!

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As you can see, I curved the back to make it more apron like, but also so I could keep the back pockets.  Jeans lend themselves to being a belt because of all the pockets!!  I added some patches to the back pockets and then added a pom pom trim and ribbon border.

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I wanted to add more decoration, and following my recent addiction to free machine embroidery (which I will go into more detail at some point in the future), I drew out some sewing related appliqué onto bondaweb!

pinny complete

Et voila!  Here is the end result!  I added some random buttons to the front pockets and stitched additional detail on the appliqué.  Now I put my scissors on a bungee rope so they’re always with me but I do think I need to add a scissor holster to it to improve it.

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#miymarch16

#miymarch16 may have been a couple of months ago, but here are the resulting images I posted from it below.

Make it Yourself March is an Instagram event.  It involves posting an image based on the daily photo prompt – a list can be found on Wendy Ward’s blog from this year.

New to Instagram, I found this event coincided beautifully with a couple of my goals – to become more familiar with using social media and to push myself to create more.  It was a great way to be inspired by fellow dressmakers.

Instagram is an easy form of social media if you have a smart phone and I’ve carried on using it since.

During March, I made 4 dressmaking items, completed upcycling projects, planned future projects, made gifts and machine embroidered.

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Bee Themed!

One of the best parts about handmade is that you can make whatever it is you’re making personal!

This is how my bee themed gift and card came about when a couple my partner’s friends with had a baby recently.  As the father currently does work relating to bees, the gift became centered around this!

bee mobile

The crocheted bee mobile was a lot of fun to make.  I used clear nylon string to attach them to an embroidery hoop for the top of the mobile.  Acrylic yarn was used so it should be hard-wearing.

I love the little sting detail too!  They were made on the round which meant no seams to sew up!

bee card

I’ve been learning how to free machine embroider this year so I used this technique to create a simple card.  I’ll be adding an improved version of this card to my etsy shop in the next week.

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Crafting with Family – March

It’s been a while since I have posted and my post is all about a craft meet up two months ago!

Mum’s house is quite a good meeting point for her, my sister and I to meet up.  We managed to meet up in March and here’s what we got on with:

applique in progress

Having purchased a lovely new Singer sewing machine recently, my sister put it to the test by having her first attempt at appliqué!  Not one to be daunted by a challenge, she decided to appliqué a friend’s name.  A very impressive feat, going around all sorts of twists and curves when you’re still adjusting to a new technique and how your new machine works!

cushion

The great part about this bright and colourful cushion is that it’s all made from remnants.  The main cushion is made from an ex-display curtain from a department store, with the money going to charity.  The letters were cut from a swatch book, which had been picked up the same way from the same store.

I didn’t embark on a sewing project this time, but I did finish the second sleeve to a short sleeved cardigan I began two years ago!  It’s now at the sew up stage before the neck band and button band are tackled…

doll progress

There’s the progress of my mum’s doll, which she began in our February meet up.  It’s coming together now it has a head!  She wasn’t able to progress with it that weekend, but she did hem up someone’s new net curtains by hand!

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Read more about the article Back to dressmaking!
Pinning the templates

Back to dressmaking!

I’ve been taking part in Make it Yourself March on Instagram this month by Wendy Ward and Emma Miles, which encourages you to post a sewing related photo every day in March based on a daily theme.

Within week one, I realised that I hadn’t made a dress in over a year.  To remedy this, my partner chose a pattern from my hoard – Simplicity 3833 – and suggested a fabric he found in my stash.  This is indeed a stashbusting project as it’s a remnant I picked up a year or so ago and I only just about had enough material to make it!

I really liked using this pattern.  The instructions were clear to follow in general.  I got a little bit confused on the zip directions, but then I tend to get confused when it comes to the zip stage whatever the project or pattern!

I chose the sleeve option.  I like sleeveless dresses and I think the sleeveless option would turn out great but I chose sleeves to practise them!  Considering this is my second attempt at sleeves, I’m quite chuffed!  I did forget to trace and tailor tack a couple of reference points on the sleeves template which didn’t help but I just gave it a go!

A new technique I learned with this pattern was understitching, which I had not heard of before but is great as it stops the interfacing rolling out on display on the neckline.  The pattern gave clear directions on this, but I checked online to ensure I understood it correctly.

This is the first time I’ve been able to use my tailor’s dummy for one of its main purposes – to assist with hemming!  It was invaluable.  I pinned where I wanted the length of the dress to finish and then used the pinned line as a guide to press and hem the length.

I would use this pattern again – perhaps using the sleeveless design or going for the longer sleeved version to vary it.

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Mother’s Day gift making – bath hats and bags

in progress
Taking over the lounge- there is a cutting mat underneath the template – honest!

It didn’t take long to come up with this year’s mother’s day gift – mainly because I knew she wanted a new bath hat!

I made her one years ago from the Cath Kidston “Sew!” book.  Unfortunately, the waterproof fabric I chose for inside the hat was quite thick and stiff.  Also, we have big heads so I think the pattern was designed for a smaller circumference head!

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Bath hat #2

I’d made my nan this green bath hat above using material I got online which I think is used for making tents.  It was much more versatile than the thick waterproof plastic for bath hat #1 anyway!  I made a much larger template for this hat and added a brim and bow!

finished result
Bath Hat and Toiletry set complete

As hat #2 was a much better fit, I went along with this design for mum’s.  However, I tried a new lining.  The fabric I used was a white showerproof material from Fabricland in Bristol.  I was apprehensive about using this, as I wasn’t sure how robust it was for using for practical and wearable items.  However, it seems to have turned out to be the cheapest and most shower hat like option of the three tried and tested!

Still chirpy from making a toiletry bag for my dad’s birthday, I felt that the hat required a matching toiletry bag.  As I wanted the bag and hat to match, I added a strip of the duck material to the top and appliquéd a duck on it too.  I couldn’t resist having another go at writing with the sewing machine, so I wrote “like a duck to water” on it.

I really enjoyed this gift set make.  It’s something I am considering to sell on my Etsy store in time for people preparing for their holidays!

snoopy wearing completed hat
Snoopy modelling the bath hat for demonstration purposes
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Crafting with family – February

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Using the overlocker in my mum’s amazing sewing room!

Crafting with others is a great way to find inspiration and motivation.  Here is what we got up to when I stayed at my mum’s for a little craft retreat:

my doll editedWe discussed a possible focus the the meet up beforehand.  The main focus was dolls.  We have a few doll patterns in our stash, but I found a free magazine kit and decided to complete this instead (from Crafts Beautiful Magazine).  This was a fast make as all of the detail was printed onto the fabric and the limbs were not joined separately.

The bunny did come with a printed tail which protruded to one side but I opted for a button tail instead so it could go on the back.  Unfortunately the bunny is so small that I’ve misplaced it!

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The vintage doll pattern used
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Doll with temporary head – looking a bit like the box head in LMFAO music videos

My mum, on the other hand, decided to choose a vintage pattern she found in a charity shop.  As the head needed to be made with a kid’s nylon sock, she made the rest of the body first.

As with many charity shop pattern purchases, she was paranoid that there would be a piece missing, but we found them all secure in the packet!  What a find for 50p!

As I had chosen a quick doll pattern to make, I went on to my next challenge – recovering the pouffe.  This pouffe has gone round the family and ended up with me in the last year.  Despite it’s long time in the family, I could find only one photo where you can see its original cover!  Enthusiastic to recover it, I completely forgot to take the before shot.

We spent ages draping fabric over it and discussing the design (a reason why the doll remained headless at the time!)

I ended up using my mum’s stash instead of my own!  The top fabric is an old curtain she made about 20 years ago with material from Ikea.  The base is covered with  a corduroy remnant from a shop.  It’s a vast improvement but now I don’t want to put my feet on it!!

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Making Individual Gifts – for Dad

For my dad’s birthday this year, I decided to use my new skills to make some different gifts to normal.

Cufflinks

cufflink showcase

Here is a photo of him wearing the cufflinks I made in glass.  I had no idea you could make cufflinks from fused glass (or didn’t think of it until it was pointed out to me)!

I’m quite limited in my glass fusing skills at the moment, particularly in cutting, so I used inclusions for the decoration (note: inclusions are when you include certain metals between the two layers of glass so that they become sealed into the piece).  The inclusions are feet.  I chose feet as he enjoys running, so it fits in with one of his hobbies.

The class pieces were fixed onto the cufflink backs with an amazing adhesive called Hang-your-glass, which creates a strong finished piece.

Toiletry Bag

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Here is a photo of the toiletry bag I made.  I used free machine embroidery to decorate this item.  I made up the design from a family saying – “A bath is worth two hours’ sleep” which I believe he relies on to keep up with his busy schedule!

I really enjoyed making the personalised design on this bag.  The bath tub was appliquéd on with an old curtain swatch remnant.  I particularly enjoy writing with the machine, which is great because I no longer gaze longingly at impressive but expensive embroidery machines with preset lettering options.  Sure, a machine program for lettering is faster and accurate, but free machine embroidery comes out differently every time.

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